Dakota Digital Cruise Control Installation CRS-2000/CRS-3000

Dakota Digital Cruise Control Installation CRS-2000/CRS-3000

Late-model daily drivers are raising the
bar on our hot rods and classics. Luxuries like air conditioning and
cruise control and overdrive are quickly becoming non-negotiable when planning a
project. We’ve seen a sharp increase in demand lately for cruise controls, with
customers citing comfort is the number one reason, followed by increased fuel
economy and maybe a few less speeding tickets. Whatever your reason for adding
electronic cruise control, you’re gonna love the modern convenience. The CRS-2000 and 3000 packages come complete with the control module with 44 inch
cable, also in the box you’ll find the wiring harness, a pack of installation
hardware, universal mounting bracket, a good set of instructions, and the control
switch specified at purchase. Once you’re familiar with the components and have
looked over the instruction manual, begin installation. The cruise control system
includes hardware to connect to nearly any mechanical throttle linkage. Whether
it’s cable or lever, you’re bound to find something in the bag that’ll work.
Getting the throttle cable dialed in can be easier on your bench so we’ll start
our installation here. In the hardware pack you’ll find a 1032 lock washer nut.
This can be used to thread the plastic cable housing. Once the threads are
formed, the cable stay or steel flag nut can be threaded on. Starting the lock
washer nut can be tricky, but once it grabs, an 11 millimeter box-end wrench is
all you need. As the nut is spun it digs into the
housing, creating threads. Two inches of threads is ideal. Back the nut off before putting your
preferred end on. For our installation we need a square
cable-stay to snap into our bracket. By threading the cable in forward or
back, you can adjust cable tension or slack. The flag nut threads on the same way. There are several variables to keep in
mind when mounting your cruise control module. When possible avoid moisture and
heat, while maintaining accessibility. And plan out your cable and wire routing.
It’s good practice to disconnect the positive battery cable before beginning
installation. We decided to mount the cruise module on the firewall. We use the
supplied mounting bracket bent at a 90 degree angle, and use the self tapping
screws to secure to the firewall. This location will keep the unit dry and away
from engine heat, plus it points the cable toward the throttle body. The
programming switches and status LED are positioned down but the mounting screws
will be easy to access on the top. Pulling out these two screws allows for
quick removal should we need to make an adjustment. The supplied coarse thread
screws can be run into the module with a 10mm socket. The module is secured, so now we can run
the cable toward the throttle body. Your goal here is gentle bends, steering clear
of the exhaust and front accessory drive. Secure the cable as necessary to ensure
it does not move while in use This Chevy 1500 already had a dual cable
bracket we could use for the CRS cable. The supplied snap-in adapter fits
easily into the stock bracket. The throttle lever on this engine had an
unused stud we were able to snap the supplied connector over. We adjusted the
cable until there was no slack. Any drooping here should be avoided, but
don’t make it so tight that the throttle blades are open at rest. A strategic cable tie keeps the cable
from moving around during operation. With the control module mounted, start
looking at the wiring. It’s good practice to begin with the farthest away
components and work inward. Generally this is the vehicle speed sensor, so
start there and run the wires to the module. Then look for your next component.
Bundle the wires together whenever possible to keep them safe from hazards
as well as electrical noise, such as spark plug wires or high output ignition
modules. The CRS cruise packages can be used in nearly any application whether
you have a mechanical speedometer cable or a late-model transmission that only
offers an electronic VSS output. For applications with a mechanical
speedometer cable our supplied pass-through pulse generator should be
installed between the transmission and cable. The coupler nuts thread onto a
GM transmission, while the sensor features male threads suitable for the
existing cable. For Ford applications, Dakota Digital offers an adapter for the
sensor. Though a custom cable with a GM-style 7/8 inch female thread collar will
be required to complete the installation. If adding a pulse generator to the
mechanical speedometer cable is not an option. The SEN-4165 magnetic pickup
kit can be utilized. This package consists of four small magnets to be
installed on the drive shaft along with a magnetic pickup coil to read vehicle
speed. If you’re running a Dakota Digital instrument system with a dedicated speed
sensor or ECM output connected to the speed-send terminal, you’re in luck.
The control box speed-out terminal will provide a 4,000 pulse-per-mile speed
signal which can be used for the cruise-control speed input. Unfortunately, this output is not active
when used with BIM-01-2 OBD2 interface If you’re running a fully electronic
transmission like this 4L60-E, you won’t have provisions to attach a pulse
generator. Luckily these transmissions already provide an electronic speed
signal which puts you a step ahead. Though you can’t simply splice into
these VSS wires for the cruise, utilize the VSS out wire on your ECM harness or
a Dakota Digital STA-1000 interface. Which captures speed data without
interrupting vehicle operation. For applications outside these options,
contact our sales department for other possible solutions. The cruise packages
include your choice of control switch. Whether a turn-signal stock or dash-mounted
switch. Either option is a simple plug into the cruise control harness. Though
physical installation does vary. To avoid dealing with the airbag steering wheel
in this pickup, we’re going to mount the HND-2 switch in this flat spot on the
dash. We use the template to drill the three holes required for installation. Of
course, before any tools are fired up, we’ll remove the bezel to check for
clearance and avoid drilling through any vital parts behind the bezel. The center
hole allows the wires to pass through out of sight. We’ve got the switch
mounted and have run the wires down toward the main cruise harness. Next
we’ll plug the switch wires into the white connector, matching the wire colors
to the letters on the connector, and plug the HND harness into the main. While under the dash, locate and make your
connections for ignition power and ground, along with the hot side of the
brake switch. Ensure any new wiring done under the dash is safely away from moving
components like the steering column, pedals, and the drivers feet. The cruise
system requires a simple wiring harness to be integrated to the vehicle. The wire
color functions are as follows: Ignition power is brown. Locate a clean
source of ignition controller power. Connect the black wire to a solid
chassis ground. The tach wire is dark blue and connects to the negative side
of the coil or tach output. This is used for runaway protection. Cruise-control-engaged signal is an orange wire. This could connect to a Dakota Digital gauge
system or a separate indicator to let you know that the cruise control is
turned on. The purple wire connects to the cold side of the brake switch. This
requires nearly direct ground connection. If your project vehicle is equipped with
LED tail lights, a relay needs to be added to the violet wire in the cruise
harness. LEDs do not provide a ground to the violet wire as a traditional bulb
would. Adding a relay to the circuit ensures a clean on-off signal on the
violet wire and therefore positive cancellation of the cruise when the
brake is applied. Dakota Digital sells a 30 amp automotive relay for this purpose.
The speed input, or VSS, is gray. This connects to either a Dakota Digital
control box, speed output terminal, an ECM connection, or an inline pulse generator. The VSS input for the cruise is programmable between 2,000 and 40,000
pulses-per-mile. When it comes to setting up the cruise control, there are 12
programming switches used for calibration and fine-tuning. These are dip switches, simply on or off, and you can use a pen or another fine-point
object to move them. Switches 1 and 2 adjust the gain, or sensitivity, of the
cruise control. Modifying the combination of switches, on or off, changes how
quickly the cruise will make an adjustment to stay on your set speed.
With both switches off sensitivity is at the extra-low setting. Start here,
especially with high-powered or lightweight vehicles. Turning switch 1 on
changes the sensitivity to low. Reversing the pair puts the system
at mid. And finally, both switches on yields the highest sensitivity setting.
The cruise will be very quick to adjust speed. It may end up surging in light-weight or high horsepower applications, or in areas with hilly terrain. The cruise control system monitors vehicle speed. Be it from a mechanical pulse
generator, inductive pickup, or other electronic source. Speed is measured by
the number of pulses-per-mile. The unit can be adjusted to accommodate the signal you’re feeding it. Adjustable from 2,000 to 38,600 pulses-per-mile, most vehicle-driven speed sensors are acceptable. But
for higher pulse-count applications Dakota Digital part number SGI-5E may be required to cut the signal down to an acceptable rate. Refer to your supplied installation manual for all 16 setting combinations. For example, the Dakota Digital sensors such as the SEN-01-4160 provides an 8,000 pulse-per-mile signal. So switches
three and four should be on, while five and six are off. Magnetic pickup coil SEN- 4165, when installed with all four magnets, also offers 8,000 pulses-per-mile. The signal from a Dakota Digital instrument system
control box can be changed from 2,000 to 4,000 pulses-per-mile. Switches seven through nine adjust the setup timer, which is how quickly the
cruise control starts maintaining speed when the set button is pressed. Adjust
these switches according to the number of cylinders your engine has and at the
lowest setting. Start with switches seven through nine off for v8 applications. At
initial engagement, if the cruise drops off five miles per hour, engages, then
slowly comes up to the set speed, change to high. This increases the reaction of
initial pull and lock for the cruise. most two-wire sensors supply a sine
wave, while three-wire sensors, the VSS output from a Dakota Digital control box,
and most ECM outputs are square wave. Switch number 10 tells the cruise module
what type of signal it is receiving. Off for a sine wave, on for square. Turn
switch 11 on if you’re running an automatic transmission or off for a
stick shift. There are two types of control switches
for the screws module: HND-1 and HND-3 are normally closed switches, while HND-2 is normally open. With everything set up, but before you
take a test drive, try to contain your excitement and run through the
diagnostic process to ensure all of the connections and settings are correct
before getting out on the road. To put the cruise into self-diagnostic mode and ensure it’s receiving basic signals for operation; including power, ground, vehicle
speed, and input from the control switch; turn your control switch off and the
vehicle ignition off. Applications using HND-1 and HND-3 turn-signal levers,
slide the resume excel slider all the way over and turn the vehicle ignition
on. Then you’ll see the red status LED in the control box is lit. Applications
using HND-2, hold the resume excel switch up while turning the system on.
The diagnostic LED should be off at this time. You are now in self-diagnostic mode.
Press and release the set-coast button. Each time the button is pressed the
status LED should illuminate. If it’s not, check programming switch 12. This switch
should be on for normally closed switches and off for normally open, such
as the HND-2. If set incorrectly, reset and then re-enter diagnostic mode. Next,
we’ll test the resume-excel function. Each time the switch is moved you’ll see
the red LED indicator illuminate. If not, check power to the cruise module
as well as the cruise control switch. You will need a second person to help
perform this next test. Press and release the brake pedal. The status LED should
light each time the pedal is pressed and go out when it is released. If not, check
power to the red, positive, brake wire and check the brake-switch connector and
wiring to the brake switch. Step #8 is a test of the VSS source. You can roll the vehicle forward and back at least 2 meters, or around 6 feet. Alternatively, jack up the drive wheels and rotate the wheels by hand. As you do, the status LED
should flash and continue flashing at the same rate. If it’s not flashing, check
the vehicle speed sensor or the source of the VSS. Keep in mind the cruise control
can still pass this test even if the pulse count is too high or too low. If
your new cruise system passed the diagnostic test process with flying
colors, you should be ready to take a test-drive. The cruise must be road tested. Putting the vehicle on jack stands will not cut it.
Once out on the road, try out all of the functions of the cruise including set
resume, and accel. Keep it in mind that the system will not engage below 45 miles-per-hour. Also, cancel the cruise control using the switch and brake pedal to ensure
both work properly. You may wish to make some adjustments to the operation.
If so, revisit the programming switches to help dial it in for your vehicle. You
should be all set. Ready to hit the road on your next hotrod adventure. Only this
time, you won’t have a sore leg when you arrive.

7 thoughts on “Dakota Digital Cruise Control Installation CRS-2000/CRS-3000

  1. As always, great information, and it just shows how easy Dakota Digital makes their products work with many applications. Greg explained everything you need to know to do this install yourself.

  2. I am installing this on my T bucket. The engine is a 396 chevy. This was very much worth watching. I had one question about the added ice cube relay. Your picture of how it looks when it is wired in was all that I needed. I was concerned that with the brake peddle engaged there would be a short in the light system. I see that you are routing the 12 volts through the built-in windings of the relay. I understand now. You might want to reword your instructions and show a picture of it hooked up like you did in this video. Nice video.

  3. Great video.  I have owned this set up for over a year.  Only problem I had was "solid core" spark plug wires do NOT work and will interfere with the electronics.  I swapped them out to suppression core plug wires, my problems when away.  Works great on my 1966 Mustang with the HND-2 switch!

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